Ya know the way in lots of cultures there’s some form of formal ceremony of passage, the place a younger man or lady undergoes some difficult check and thereby passes into maturity? For us, I might enterprise that that is the clutch job.

And, I am going through it.

It’s extremely early days for the failure development in my bike, however the indicators are there with 34k mi on the clock. So, I am girding up my loins to do some wrenching that’ll vastly enlarge my expertise. Translation: I am wading into deep water, and I do know it.

For a number of weeks now, I have been perusing the boards and YouTube movies, finding out the Clymer, and availing myself of the wealth of data, expertise, and good will that by no means ceases to amaze me. I’ve reached out on to a number of high-profile members or content material creators. I’ve created lists – spreadsheets of instruments, store tools, lubricants, and so on. Now I do know what Staburags is… And I’ve began ordering these items. With a number of multi-day rides nonetheless deliberate this season, I anticipate starting the job in mid-November, combining it with the 36k mi service that’ll be due by then.

In the meantime, I am now getting down to creating buying selections for the components themselves. And right here, I’ve two questions:

(1) Do I order the total set of clutch substitute components, together with the ‘onerous’ components that won’t really must be changed? Or do I order the ‘minimal’ set of components that can positively want substitute and wait till I get in there and see what’s what? The choice is sophisticated by concerns of the undertaking’s timeframe. I am pretty sure I will find yourself ordering from one among two UK-based suppliers – advisable by a outstanding discussion board member – as a result of the value distinction in comparison with US-based sources is simply ridiculous. Even accounting for the internat’l delivery value, seems like I will save properly over 50% of the components value of $1,332 that my native supplier quoted. (And sure, these suppliers are promoting real OEM BMW clutch components.) That is nice, nevertheless it implies that if I do not go all-in on the up-front components ordering, then tear down the bike and see that sure, the onerous components (e.g., diaphragm spring, strain plate, housing cowl (aka strain ring)) DO must be changed… properly, then, the 2nd spherical of worldwide ordering will add some weeks to the catastrophe that my storage will change into.

How have the Elders right here managed this concern? Be secure and order the entire shebang? Or take it one step at a time and save no matter cash you’ll be able to?

(2) There are alternate options on the market for the clutch (friction) plate itself. I can actually go along with the OEM (Sachs) substitute. Or, I can attempt to go upscale. Seibenrock (some doubt on the market, apparently, that these are nonetheless out there for flying brick engines). Oil resistant? Ceramic, if I wanna go somewhat loopy? One of many two UK suppliers provides a buy-up substitute made by Newfren that is marketed as ‘oil proof.’ Newfren would not appear to be a well-recognized aftermarket possibility for BMW bikes, however their web site exhibits a Mannequin F1497 for the K41 variant of the K12GT. It is available in two flavors – clearly totally different kind the thumbnail photographs – however with none description of the variations. There’s the ‘Okay’ model and the ‘KW’ model, and it seems just like the UK provider provides the latter.

So… opinions? Is ‘oil proof’ actually a giant profit – or, is it even an actual factor? Anybody have any expertise with the Newfren friction plate? Is ceramic simply utterly excessive, and are there even any ceramic choices on the market for the Okay-brick single-dry-plate clutch? I’ve learn discussion board feedback like, “the OEM Sachs clutch will go 100k miles, so why hassle with the rest?” BUT… properly, I have to be pretty onerous on it, or the earlier proprietor was (had 11.6k mi on the clock after I purchased it in 2019), as a result of 34k mi is pretty younger for a clutch to start out its loss of life throes. Is not it…??

And a third query: I have been advised that the OEM O-ring is probably going the basis reason behind the leakage/slippage, and that I will positively need to change it. I’ve additionally learn that the fabric that OEM half was produced from is inferior to Viton, and that it is advisable to swap in a Viton substitute. Can anybody inform me a make/mannequin and supply for the Viton model?

BTW, I am additionally assuming that I will be changing the rear most important seal and doubtless the tranny enter and output seals. For these, my ordering choices look like restricted, with the most effective I’ve discovered being Max BMW. Anybody produce other provider suggestions?

What concerning the clutch slave cylinder? Many individuals recommend that this get replaced, too, because you’re deep in there anyway and it will go, ultimately. Ideas….?

And eventually… only for grins:

— Dealership quote for the job: $3,423.76. Lower than 10 hrs of labor.

— Recommendation of the lead store mechanic: “Journey it till it explodes.” Which means, it is not value fixing, so take pleasure in it whereas it lasts.

Thanks,

Corey