It is a story that was a very long time coming… The truth is, it comes all the way in which from TAG Heuer perhaps 10 years in the past. Whereas numerous titles within the group have certainly scored interviews with Bulgari CEO Jean-Christophe Babin since 2013, WOW has not bought one since no less than 2016 (no less than not within the period of this editor, who by no means had one in any of his earlier roles and corporations – Ed). Provided that WOW has lately managed to interview the CEO of each LVMH watchmaking model (from Hublot to TAG Heuer), it was notably galling that Babin eluded us. Nicely, no extra as a result of we lastly did it and thus achieved the LVMH Grand Slam of CEO interviews.

Critically although, Babin represents one of many final of the old-school watch and jewelry bosses, but is by no means married to custom. Certainly, he typically zigs once you suppose he’ll zag, as they are saying. We, and little question you too, recall very properly when Babin introduced Bulgari’s ultra-thin watch problem in BaselWorld, in all probability in 2013 or 2014. It was a deeply astonishing transfer from a person who had solely simply moved over from TAG Heuer, the place he had been CEO since 2000. The seeds for this had already been laid on the model he would lead from then proper as much as the current as a result of the Octo Finissimo had debuted in 2012 and the Serpenti was already profitable. On the boldest frontier but, Bulgari had already jumped into dwelling furnishing and the hospitality enterprise by Babin’s period.

Born in France however described constantly (by his personal staff and himself) as Italian at coronary heart, Babin differs from his friends in that he by no means inserts himself into the dialog. That’s true from the design language right down to communication in regards to the model’s id; Babin is fairly clear about what he needs for Bulgari (one constant id throughout all of the areas it operates in) and he is aware of he has the correct staff to ship. The truth is, the staff he constructed at Bulgari is what he cites first when requested about his legacy – he singles out Vice President for Advertising and marketing and Communications Laura Burdese particularly as a result of she helps him with what Bulgari calls One-Model Elevation, which is that aforementioned technique of retaining the model constant in all areas.

As a veteran of the commerce, Babin does converse his thoughts – in contrast to many Swiss model executives, he can and does usually point out his competitors by title, proper right down to the product degree. All of that is on the document, after all, as you will notice. Babin can also be unafraid to make daring claims – boldness is central to the Italian id of Bulgari in any case. When he initially lauded the ultra-thin achievements of Bulgari in watchmaking, he was taking the battle to some fairly large gamers and Bulgari had no expertise on this enviornment. The outcomes converse for themselves there, though Babin is adamant that the concept was probably not to have a go at world information or seize headlines.

With that, we’ll let Babin take it away, with a salvo fired nearly from the beginning…

How was Geneva Watch Days for you?

As , that is the fourth Geneva Watch Days in a row. We began throughout (the COVID-19 pandemic lockdown) as a result of we felt the necessity for a present to exchange BaselWorld (now defunct) and SIHH (now Watches and Wonders, and reworked that 12 months right into a digital-only occasion). Geneva Watch Days was the primary bodily occasion for the watch and jewelry commerce that 12 months (though the bigger element was doubtless nonetheless the digital model as a result of folks nonetheless couldn’t journey).

And this 12 months, it’s larger than ever with 40 manufacturers; that is numerous manufacturers for a brand new present! Not solely do we now have the assist of Geneva (the town and the Canton), however we now have the total assist of the FHH on the bottom the FHH is the organiser of Watches and Wonders – Ed. So greater than ever, we’re the official Geneva watch truthful! And it’s not even only a watch truthful any longer; it has develop into a watch discussion board. By that, I imply that a part of your complete truthful is devoted by the manufacturers to boards and symposiums. Sure, the manufacturers are right here to introduce novelties however an enormous period of time can also be (invested) in speaking (within the format of a discussion board, panel dialogue and so forth). Bulgari had an ideal symposium with Wei Koh (of Revolution) on the subject of name builders. I participated in one other one with Georges Kern (of Breitling) and Max Busser (of MB&F) on the way forward for retail. So, there are lots of actions at Geneva Watch Days, not forgetting additionally an public sale to profit the Geneva watchmaking faculty.

I discussed 40 manufacturers earlier however actually there are various extra profiting from this large gathering (of ours) to organise their very own occasions. There are in all probability one other 20 to 25 (non-exhibitors) organising such occasions (throughout Geneva Watch Days), and this makes it some of the necessary watch gala’s on the worldwide calendar.

So Geneva Watch Days is right here to remain then…

Nicely, , I used to be at BaselWorld for a lot of, a few years – first with TAG Heuer after which with Bulgari. I visited the SIHH in Geneva just about yearly too, pushed by curiosity. On the finish of the day, even earlier than issues got here to a head, I used to be very skeptical of the codecs and ideas of these gala’s however not as a result of I don’t like or consider in watch gala’s (per se). So, 30 to 40 years in the past, the method was very clear and logical. With advancing expertise; evolving consumptions habits; new shoppers (of various markets and kinds); and digital media consumption, it was all getting a bit quaint… to not point out prohibitively costly.

So I used to be planning to withdraw from BaselWorld anyway after which got here COVID-19, which accelerated issues; since I didn’t just like the historic format of the gala’s, some associates and I who shared the identical imaginative and prescient determined to start out one thing new. With out COVID, we might have began this anyway, perhaps in 2021 or 2022, however (like I stated, issues bought accelerated). It was the worst attainable time…there have been lockdowns…we needed to transfer the date 3 times… However in the long run, in August of 2020, we made it (regardless that the world was removed from again to regular).

It was successful, confirming that our philosophy and the pillars of our new idea had been far more in tune with time than (the outdated gala’s), and this is the reason Watches and Wonders doesn’t like us a lot… Clearly it’s all the time painful to see a small group of medium sized manufacturers organizing a good fairly simply for little or no value whereas getting the assist of authorities who by no means gave their assist to the larger typical gala’s which can be very expensive…

Issues have modified rather a lot in watchmaking over the course of your profession. How have issues modified for you personally, out of your time at TAG Heuer to your current position in Bulgari?

Initially, Bulgari is sort of a group, , as a result of we’re working in many various areas. Bulgari is a small luxurious group in contrast with LVMH, after all, to which we belong, however we’re working in jewellery, in watches, in hospitality, in fragrances, in equipment, in luggage… TAG Heuer is primarily a watchmaker, though it was clearly profitable in eyewear too. We made some inroads into luxurious cellphones however TAG Heuer was and is a watchmaker. Eternally.

So, the primary distinction is that I’ve to be far more agile, mentally, to change from one class to a different. It’s because Bulgari is competing towards totally different manufacturers in several classes. This competitors is pushed by various factors; consumer expectations are totally different from class to class and due to this fact I want the agility to leap from the one to the opposite whereas retaining a really strict body (of reference encompassing all facets) in order that finally for the consumer, there’s one model solely, regardless that it’s in a number of classes. To attain this, I’ve outlined – in a really express method – that Bulgari is primarily a powerful Roman jeweller, and that every little thing else we might do can be linked to being Roman and being a jeweller.

Because of this we’re the Roman jeweler of time; the Roman jeweller of treasured skins; of olfactive feelings (for fragrances); and of hospitality for the inns (and so forth). So every little thing is finished with the identical obsessive consideration for perfection, for magnificence, for element, for excellence of beliefs. That is the thread (connecting all of the classes) that I’m accountable for as a result of I don’t have a creative director accountable for general model consistency and creativity. I’m the one ensuring all the companies converge with the mission. Along with my Advertising and marketing Vice President Laura (Burdese), we be sure that out of our range, the patron and consumer notion is that there’s one model solely. Ideally, it’s the most fascinating expertise in luxurious you will get worldwide (in watchmaking, to quote the novelties of Geneva Watch Days, that is very like the rose gold bridges paired with platinum micro- rotors marking the calibres BVL138 and BVL305 that energy the Octo Finissimo CarbonGold Automated and the Perpetual Calendar). So, we’re on our method. It’s not but achieved as a result of, , it’s a very bold aim. However that is the imaginative and prescient, and this imaginative and prescient drives us.

Given the superb status Bulgari has as a jeweller – experiences on LVMH constantly opine that Bulgari’s jewelry enterprise is larger than all of LVMH’s watch enterprise, however appropriate me if I’m mistaken-

No, no, I received’t appropriate you!

Okay! So why deal with all these different areas? Why put all this effort into making Octo Finissimo the thinnest watch on the planet, over 10 years and throughout issues?

Nicely, first, , the watch market is sort of a giant one and we now have a comparatively small share. We’re an necessary participant, however no model has a commanding share, besides Rolex.

Clearly, when the market is fragmented, it’s typically simpler to get market share, supplied you might be inventive and constant, with a qualitative method. We spent lots of effort on micro mechanical engineering with the Finissimo, sure, but in addition within the Piccolissimo for girls (which later resulted in some highly effective fashions within the Serpenti vary, which is Bulgari’s biggest-selling line)… That is to say that making ultra-thin watches was by no means for the sake of beating world information. It was to execute our imaginative and prescient of fashion for males; the imaginative and prescient was the final word masculine up to date magnificence.

In ready-to-wear, we name it slim match. And so, as gents indulged in slim match, they wanted a slim watch as a result of in any other case there’s a mismatch. This was the genesis of the ultra-thin Octo Finissimo! The slim match type obliged us to reinvent the mechanical motion with a view to make it suitable with the aesthetic imaginative and prescient. And we now have been so profitable on this that we now have the ultra-thin document in each class…you title it, we now have it!

This text first appeared on WOW’s Festive 2024 difficulty.

For extra on the most recent in watch reads, click on right here.