The CEO function in a world watch model is usually an ambassadorial one too, particularly when collectors and retail companions are all the time searching for a chunk of your time. Very often, these people complain when the highest govt goes too lengthy with out visiting worldwide markets. On this word, it has been far too lengthy since we reconnected with Panerai CEO Jean-Marc Pontroué, so when the native public relations arm of the model requested if we wished a few of Pontroué’s time, we jumped on the likelihood. In fact, WOW goes a great distance again with each Panerai and Pontroué.

Within the modern period of this journal, Panerai had the Summer season problem cowl from 2013 all the way in which to 2017. That is becoming as a result of the Paneristi – the amassing clique most obsessive about the model – are significantly robust in Singapore; in 2020 and 2021, amidst the turmoil of COVID-19, we discovered that the Panerai boutique in ION Orchard had develop into the best-performing boutique for the model on the earth (by the model’s personal off-the-record estimation). Given the dimensions of Singapore, this was superb to study…little doubt you, expensive reader, are one in every of these hardcore elites since you have got made it this far into the story. We most likely made some hay out of this truth in the previous few years, and it gave us additional impetus to reconnect with the Swiss-Italian watchmaker.

Not for nothing, the opposite motive we relished the chance to fulfill Pontroué in Singapore was that the editors of this journal have recognized him since his days at Montblanc, which he joined on the flip of the millennium. I personally recall him main the press presentation on the model through the Salon Worldwide de la Haute Horlogerie (SIHH) in 2008, most likely. Pontroué was probably Product Technique and Growth Government Vice President at the moment. No matter his title, he was undoubtedly a key particular person in product technique and improvement, having lower his tooth constructing the leather-based items enterprise for Givenchy, an LVMH firm. Many of the present era of editors and writers most likely obtained to know Pontroué significantly better in his years as CEO of Roger Dubuis, the place he developed the thought of HyperHorology, which in the present day defines that model. He joined the model in 2011 and rapidly grew to become CEO, which was his function there for six years.

At Panerai, Pontroué succeeded the legendary Angelo Bonati, a person synonymous with the model’s modern standing. Thus, he had some fairly large footwear to fill, whereas taking the model into uncharted territory and shaping his personal legacy. To his credit score, Pontroué envisioned a future for Panerai that was distinctly Italian, whereas increasing its core providing past the dive and army heritage of the model. A key instance of latest challenges for Panerai could be seen in its deal with materials innovation, being within the vanguard of manufacturers striving to make use of extra recycled metal and titanium. He additionally introduced the thought of tying particular watches with particular experiences, which he pioneered at Roger Dubuis, to Panerai. We focus on this, and Panerai’s extra elegant flip with the Luminor Due with Pontroué on this prolonged dialog.

We didn’t get an opportunity to talk about Watches and Wonders Geneva so let’s start there.

You already know Watches and Wonders Geneva is likely one of the solely possibilities we have now to current ourselves (and what we do) to the world. It’s the equal of couture week (within the numerous trend capitals) besides that we have now just one present. Now that we’re 60 manufacturers (displaying at Watches and Wonders Geneva this yr), the competitors is getting tougher and tougher so we have now to do lots to impress the general public, the journalists, the sellers… the whole watch group. This is the reason for me it’s a artistic train…earlier than it was extra a promoting train however now that we’re an increasing number of promoting out of our personal boutiques and retail companions, the Watches and Wonders Geneva present is about making an impression. It’s about speaking. The key goal of (a serious worldwide watch truthful) is capturing consideration, create buzz, generate social media site visitors… we’re not solely right here to promote watches. Perhaps 10 years in the past, watches had been the primary attraction…home windows at exhibitor’s cubicles filled with watches. Now, watches are nonetheless essential however the present is extra about storytelling. That’s the explanation to come back to the truthful, particularly for the general public.

I used to be very impressed by public attendance over the weekend as a result of we had 3,800 folks in two days. Some simply wish to see the sales space however we had near 1,000 individuals who wished to check the watches. So they’d sit down like we’re right here, with one in every of our representatives, to attempt, to check, to take footage… So it was a really spectacular publicity we have now obtained on the weekend, which was new for us.

So totally different from the general public days of the SIHH then?

We had them then? You might have a greater reminiscence than me. It was not very spectacular as a result of I don’t maintain any recollections of it! This yr, it was very effectively organized; we had folks queuing as much as enter our sales space as a result of we had, for safety causes, capability for under 100 individuals who might be inside (at anybody time). So Watches and Wonders Geneva has been a really fruitful train for us when it comes to model staging and site visitors publicity to a whole lot of new communities.

For instance, I found we have now a Paneristi group in Liechtenstein (one of many smallest and richest nations on the earth – Ed). Are you aware the place Liechtenstein is? At Watches and Wonders, I met the chief of the Paneristi in Liechtenstein, and I didn’t know we even had a group there! So, watch festivals are the events to fulfill folks you wouldn’t have met in any other case, and I all the time have been an enormous fan. Having one event a yr the place Geneva is the centre level of all of the watch trade makes a whole lot of sense, proper? It’s good for Switzerland, good for Geneva, and good for our trade.

And but you’ll proceed to point out new watches all year long, as you might be doing now in Singapore with the Brabus PAM01283…

For us, Watches and Wonders is a platform the place we don’t present every thing. We have now events to stage new merchandise all yr lengthy. After Singapore, I can be in New York for the massive boutique opening there and we have now one version just for New York, which we don’t present right here. The identical can be true of Watches and Wonders Shanghai (which could have wrapped by the point you learn this – Ed).

Coming again to the Paneristi, and fan communities typically, how do you interact with them provided that they aren’t a creation of the model?

It’s a superb query. The Paneristi group was not created by Panerai, sure. It grew to become a motion that began within the US three years after the model itself restarted (circa 2000). So even in the present day, the boss of the Paneristi on the earth is a man I do know very effectively, based mostly in Chicago. I’ve a whole lot of contact with the Paneristi in all of the nations I go to the place I attempt to meet with them. Not on a regular basis. I all the time say that the Paneristi (or a group like them) is the most important advertising and marketing division a watch model can dream about having proper? As a result of we have now 30,000 members who know Panerai higher than any of us on the model.

They’re very loyal to the model; very supportive, and lively in defending the model, and bringing in new members… Generally I meet members who’re very younger folks, not the standard guys who’re my age, however the brand new era, you understand, and that is what I like very a lot. As a result of the son of the Panerista (the informally accepted singular for Paneristi – Ed) can also be now a Panerista. In Singapore, we met some younger guys, who got here (to a meet-and-greet with the model) and possibly they stole some watches from their fathers (to put on that night)!

We had, at one in every of our Panerai Experiences with (adventurer and conservationist) Mike Horn, a child who was 12. So, the daddy couldn’t come (and thus loaned) his Mike Horn watch (we presume this to be the Submersible Ecopangaea Tourbillon GMT Mike Horn PAM01108, however there are a variety of Mike Horn editions – Ed) to his son, who got here to have the Expertise. So, the assist we get from the Paneristi is totally natural (and occasions such because the Panerai Experiences usually are not Paneristi occasions, as such). The Paneristi are simply right here within the background to assist us but when they don’t like what we do, they are saying it additionally! You already know that they are often very vocal after they don’t like what we do.

And so clarify that? It’s cultural… ardour shouldn’t be one thing you may clarify. It’s like love. So, I feel it’s the similar dynamic in the case of the love for a model. You might have a whole lot of good causes in the case of Panerai: the historical past, our Italian id, the truth that we’re so spectacular. It creates a belonging spirit, which could be very distinctive to our model. There are manufacturers within the watch trade a lot larger than us, regardless that we’re a part of the highest 15 manufacturers. Nevertheless, the sense of loyalty of the individuals who like Panerai is likely one of the highest within the watch trade.

Why do you suppose that is?

We have now by no means studied rationally (about) the why. Perhaps it’s as a result of we’re not an enormous model, though we’re not small… Perhaps it’s as a result of we have now a sure proximity with a lot of our prospects, although not all of them. There’s this heat (in our relationship with our prospects) which isn’t standardized (or generic); you have got nonetheless the impression to be a part of a household. And we do occasions with them…

So, we do 400 buyer occasions per yr in our firm, worldwide. I don’t understand how many individuals we see at every one, possibly 100. In order that’s 40,000 a yr, in a really intimate manner…(similar to on the Singapore Panerai buyer occasion the place) I feel I shook fingers with roughly everybody who attended, and it was the identical in Bangkok (the place I used to be earlier than coming to Singapore).

This love for Panerai additionally extends to a few of your extra well-known associates…

You already know this film known as “Operation Fortune”? Properly the star of that present, Jason Statham, who’s an enormous fan of Panerai, got here to our boutique in London two years in the past, purchased 4 watches and advised the employees there that he wants these watches for his subsequent film. We had no concept it was Operation Fortune, and also you see the watches within the film introduced very properly. We by no means did something, we by no means paid Jason Statham…I used to be not even in a position to thank him. We don’t even have his e-mail handle due to course he doesn’t give his e-mail handle when he’s at our boutiques. Even by way of his agent, it is extremely sophisticated but it surely tells you one thing {that a} man like that, who represents very a lot what Panerai stands for – very athletic, very sporty – placing his personal watches into his films. That is what I name the smooth energy of the model.

Mr Statham is a longtime Panerai collector! However what about one thing new that maybe you have got by no means seen earlier than? 

The phenomena which is new for me is extra in the direction of girls watches and girls shopping for our watches…that is new clientele we have now. We didn’t have so many merchandise earlier than that had been appropriate (dimension smart) however now we have now the 38mm assortment, just like the Luminor Due for instance. We even have small problems just like the moon part. We have now the straps from Prada, we have now some new pastel dial colors. For the primary time, within the boutique in New York, we have now a devoted space for girls.

This text was first printed on WOW Autumn Subject #70

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